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Welcome to my blog

 

My name is Anthony Montagna and my goal  is to educate you the consumer/homeowner about the roofing systems on your homes. To give you as much up to date information from the leading roofing manufacturers, GAF, Owens Corning, Tamko, Certianteed; just to mention a few. I hope you learn something that you find helpful. Let me know your thoughts and I will be happy to answer any questions you may have. I have over 35 years of roofing and building experience.

 

 

By Anthony Montagna, Jun 18 2017 02:19PM

Animals or insects like to find a safe haven in the attic or roof spaces of a home—and these unwanted visitors can wreak havoc for homeowners. That is when they will likely call on a contractor to help fix the problems caused by infestation.

The first step is to know the typical points of entry so it’s easy to find the trouble spots:

*Gaps or missing pieces of fascia or soffit

*Openings in exterior cladding or siding

*Open or ajar gable vents or windows

*Openings at the ridge or ridge vent

*Open or uncapped chimneys

These areas and any other openings in a home’s exterior shell should be properly sealed to prevent animals and insects from migrating into a home. For example, if the top of the chimney is open, this may allow birds to escape the elements by nesting in the flue. Installing a chimney cap is a good way to prevent them from moving in. Other types of animals and insects to look out for include bees, bats, squirrels, raccoons, mice, and rats. Each of these unwanted pests could cause serious problems, including damage to the roof, attic structure, and electrical wiring, the spreading of disease, and the added risk of fire.

Have you noticed any of these common signs of infestation:

*Scurrying and scratching sounds

*Signs of gnawing on wood and electrical cables

*Signs of animal or bird droppings

*Signs of urination

*Smells

*Hives or nests present

Here are some tips to make sure your home is critter-free:

*Inspect the exterior of the home to make sure any openings or gaps in the exterior cladding or siding are

sealed

*Make sure all areas of the fascia and soffit are tight and sealed with no gaps or openings

*Make sure the chimney flue is capped or closed off when not in use

*Take note of any new or odd animal behavior in your yard, like squirrels traveling across the roof or

electical wires

*Trim trees and surrounding foliage to prevent easy access to the roof

*Perform regular inspections of the attic areas

Spring is a good time for Homeowners to reach out to Contractors about infestation and maintenance after a long, cold winter.

By Anthony Montagna, May 29 2017 04:00PM

curled shingle edges
curled shingle edges
cracked  shingles
cracked shingles
Aging roof
Aging roof
dark stains
dark stains
Moss
Moss

Spring is in the air. Memorial Day is here and summer is knocking on the door. Now that the trees have bloomed its a good time to clean out the gutters and leaders on your home. While doing so you should be sure to trim back any trees or shrubery that may be hanging on the roof or gutter system.

This time of the year is also a good time to check the roof system on your home.

Potential signs that your roof may need to be replaced:

Shingle edges are curled or shingle tabs are cupped

Bald spots where granules are missing

Cracked shingles

Your roof is at least 20 years old; while many shingles today are produced for durability, many factors can accelerate the aging of shingles. For example, if your roof is not properly ventilated, it can negatively impact your shingles

Neighbors are getting new roofs. Homes built around the same time period can experiencing the same types of weather conditions can mean that your roof is nearing its useful life

The roof just looks old and worn

Dark streaks. Airborne algae cause dark streaks on roof decks. While this may not necessarily harm the roof shingles, it may not look good. Algae streaks can be removed using a 50:50 blend of water and bleach sprayed on your roof. It is important to use a low volume garden hose so you do not knock the protective granules off your shingles. It is also important that you protect your landscaping from the bleach run-off.

Moss. Moss can grow on roof surfaces that don’t get much sunlight especially in cool, moist climates. Moss growth can be more than a cosmetic issue. Moss holds moisture against the roof surface and overtime in freezing climates can cause damage to the granules on the top of the shingles. Moss can be brushed off but it won’t prevent it from growing again; take care not to damage the shingle surface. You may need to contact a professional roofing contractor.

Sometimes a roof can naturally reach the end of its useful life without experiencing a roof failure. It just looks old and worn, and you are doing preventive maintenance on your home. If replacing an old roof is delayed, however, it could result in bigger problems down the road. So watch for the warning signs to be sure to give yourself plenty of time to add the project to your TO DO list.

By Anthony Montagna, May 18 2017 06:00AM

The National Roofing Contractors Association (NRCA) is pleased to provide you with this information as part of our ongoing effort to educate home and building owners about roofing and roofing contractors.

We hope this information will make you a more knowledgeable consumer and, when the time comes, a smart roof system buyer.

A new roof system is a big investment. We want to help you get a quality roof system at a fair price from a professional roofing contractor.

William A. Good, CAE

Executive Vice President

National Roofing Contractors Association

Roof system components

All steep-slope roof systems (i.e., roofs with slopes of 25 percent or more) have five basic components

1.Roof covering: shingles, tile, slate or metal and underlayment that protect the sheathing from weather.

2.Sheathing: boards or sheet material that are fastened to roof rafters to cover a house or building.

3.Roof structure: rafters and trusses constructed to support the sheathing.

4.Flashing: sheet metal or other material installed into a roof system's various joints and valleys to prevent water seepage.

5.Drainage: a roof system's design features, such as shape, slope and layout that affect its ability to shed water.

Choosing a roof system

There are a number of things to consider when selecting a new roof system. Of course, cost and durability head the list, but aesthetics and architectural style are important, too. The right roof system for your home or building is one that balances these five considerations. The following roofing products commonly are used for steep-slope structures.

Asphalt shingles possess an overwhelming share of the U.S. steep-slope roofing market and can be reinforced with organic or fiberglass materials. Although asphalt shingles reinforced with organic felts have been around much longer, fiberglass-reinforced products now dominate the market.

Organic shingles

consist of a cellulose-fiber (i.e., wood) base that is saturated with asphalt and coated with colored mineral granules.

Fiberglass shingles

consist of a fiberglass mat, top-and-bottom layers of asphalt, and mineral granules.

Asphalt shingles' fire resistances, like most other roofing materials, are categorized by Class A, B or C. Class A signifies the most fire-resistant; Classes B and C denote less fire resistance. Generally, most fiberglass shingles have Class A fire ratings, and most organic shingles have Class C ratings.

A shingle's reinforcement has little effect on its appearance. Organic and fiberglass products are available in laminated (architectural) grades that offer a textured appearance. Zinc or copper-coated ceramic granules also can be applied to organic or fiberglass products to protect against algae attack, a common problem in warm, humid parts of the United States. Both types of shingles also are available in a variety of colors.

Regardless of their reinforcing type and appearance, asphalt shingles' physical characteristics vary significantly. When installing asphalt shingles, NRCA recommends use of shingles that comply with American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) standards-ASTM D 225 for organic shingles and ASTM D 3462 for fiberglass shingles. These standards govern the composition and physical properties of asphalt shingles; not all asphalt shingles on the market comply with these standards. If a shingle product complies with one of these standards, it is typically noted in the manufacturer's product literature and on the package wrapper.

Wood shingles and shakes are made from cedar, redwood, southern pine and other woods; their natural look is popular in California, the Northwest and parts of the Midwest. Wood shingles are machinesawn; shakes are handmade and rougher looking. A point to consider: Some local building codes limit the use of wood shingles and shakes because of concerns about fire resistance. Many wood shingles and shakes only have Class C fire ratings or no ratings at all. However, Class A fire ratings are available for certain wood shingle products that incorporate a factory-applied, fire-resistant treatment.

Tile—clay or concrete—is a durable roofing material. Mission and Spanish-style round-topped tiles are used widely in the Southwest and Florida, and flat styles also are available to create French and English looks. Tile is available in a variety of colors and finishes. Tile is heavy. If you are replacing another type of roof system with tile, you will need to verify that the structure can support the load.

Slate is quarried in the United States in Vermont, New York, Pennsylvania and Virginia. It is available in different colors and grades, depending on its origin. Considered virtually indestructible, it is, however, more expensive than other roofing materials. In addition, its application requires special skill and experience. Many old homes, especially in the Northeast, still are protected by this long-lasting roofing material.

Metal, primarily thought of as a low-slope roofing material, has been found to be a roofing alternative for home and building owners with steep-slope roofs. There are two types of metal roofing products: panels and shingles. Numerous metal panel shapes and configurations exist. Metal shingles typically are intended to simulate traditional roof coverings, such as wood shakes, shingles and tile. Apart from metal roofing's longevity, metal shingles are relatively lightweight, have a greater resistance to adverse weather and can be aesthetically pleasing. Some have Class A fire ratings.

Synthetic roofing products simulate various traditional roof coverings, such as slate and wood shingles and shakes. However, they do not necessarily have the same properties.

Before making a buying decision, NRCA recommends that you look at full-size samples of a proposed product, as well as manufacturers' brochures. It also is a good idea to visit a building that is roofed with a particular product.

Ventilation and insulation are key

One of the most critical factors in roof system durability is proper ventilation. Without it, heat and moisture build up in an attic area and combine to cause rafters and sheathing to rot, shingles to buckle, and insulation to lose its effectiveness.

Therefore, it is important never to block off sources of roof ventilation, such as louvers, ridge vents or soffit vents, even in winter. Proper attic ventilation will help prevent structural damage caused by moisture, increase roofing material life, reduce energy consumption and enhance the comfort level of the rooms below the attic.

In addition to the free flow of air, insulation plays a key role in proper attic ventilation. An ideal attic has:

A gap-free layer of insulation on the attic floor to protect the house below from heat gain or loss

A vapor retarder under the insulation and next to the ceiling to stop moisture from rising into the attic

Enough open, vented spaces to allow air to pass in and out freely.

A minimum of 1 inch between the insulation and roof sheathing.

The requirements for proper attic ventilation may vary greatly, depending on the part of the United States in which a home or building is located, as well as the structure's conditions, such as exposure to the sun, shade and atmospheric humidity. Nevertheless, the general ventilation formula is based on the length and width of the attic. NRCA recommends a minimum of 1 square foot of free vent area for each 150 square feet of attic floor—with vents placed proportionately at the eaves (e.g., soffits) and at or near the ridge.

Even roofs have enemies

A roof system's performance is affected by numerous factors. Knowing about the following will help you make informed roof system buying decisions:

Sun: Heat and ultraviolet rays cause roofing materials to deteriorate over time. Deterioration can occur faster on the sides facing west or south.

Rain: When water gets underneath shingles, shakes or other roofing materials, it can work its way to the roof deck and cause the roof structure to rot. Extra moisture encourages mildew and rot elsewhere in a house, including walls, ceilings, insulation and electrical systems.

Wind: High winds can lift shingles' edges (or other roofing materials) and force water and debris underneath them. Extremely high winds can cause extensive damage.

Snow and ice: Melting snow often refreezes at a roof's overhang where the surface is cooler, forming an ice dam. This blocks proper drainage into the gutter. Water backs up under the shingles (or other roofing materials) and seeps into the interior. During the early melt stages, gutters and downspouts can be the first to fill with ice and be damaged beyond repair or even torn off a house or building.

Condensation: Condensation can result from the buildup of relatively warm, moisture-laden air. Moisture in a poorly ventilated attic promotes decay of wood sheathing and rafters, possibly destroying a roof structure. Sufficient attic ventilation can be achieved by installing larger or additional vents and will help alleviate problems because the attic air temperature will be closer to the outside air temperature.

Moss and algae: Moss can grow on moist wood shingles and shakes. Once it grows, moss holds even more moisture to a roof system's surface, causing rot. In addition, moss roots also can work their way into a wood deck and structure. Algae also grows in damp, shaded areas on wood or asphalt shingle roof systems. Besides creating a black-green stain, algae can retain moisture, causing rot and deterioration. Trees and bushes should be trimmed away from homes and buildings to eliminate damp, shaded areas, and gutters should be kept clean to ensure good drainage.

Trees and leaves: Tree branches touching a roof will scratch and gouge roofing materials when the branches are blown by the wind. Falling branches from overhanging trees can damage, or even puncture, shingles and other roofing materials. Leaves on a roof system's surface retain moisture and cause rot, and leaves in the gutters block drainage.

Missing or torn shingles: The key to a roof system's effectiveness is complete protection. When shingles are missing or torn off, a roof structure and home or building interior are vulnerable to water damage and rot. The problem is likely to spread-nearby shingles also are ripped easily or blown away. Missing or torn shingles should be replaced as soon as possible.

Shingle deterioration: When shingles are old and worn out, they curl, split and lose their waterproofing effectiveness. Weakened shingles easily are blown off, torn or lifted by wind gusts. The end result is structural rot and interior damage. A deteriorated roof system only gets worse with time-it should be replaced as soon as possible.

Flashing deterioration: Many apparent roof leaks really are flashing leaks. Without good, tight flashings around chimneys, vents, skylights and wall/roof junctions, water can enter a home or building and cause damage to walls, ceilings, insulation and electrical systems. Flashings should be checked as part of a biannual roof inspection and gutter cleaning.

By Anthony Montagna, May 4 2017 06:00AM

Animals or insects like to find a safe haven in the attic or roof spaces of a home—and these unwanted visitors can wreak havoc for homeowners. That is when they will likely call on a contractor to help fix the problems caused by infestation.

The first step is to know the typical points of entry so it’s easy to find the trouble spots:

Gaps or missing pieces of fascia or soffit

Openings in exterior cladding or siding

Open or ajar gable vents or windows

Openings at the ridge or ridge vent

Open or uncapped chimneys

These areas and any other openings in a home’s exterior shell should be properly sealed to prevent animals and insects from migrating into a home. For example, if the top of the chimney is open, this may allow birds to escape the elements by nesting in the flue. Installing a chimney cap is a good way to prevent them from moving in. Other types of animals and insects to look out for include bees, bats, squirrels, raccoons, mice, and rats. Each of these unwanted pests could cause serious problems, including damage to the roof, attic structure, and electrical wiring, the spreading of disease, and the added risk of fire.

Contractors should ask the homeowner if they’ve noticed any of these common signs of infestation:

Scurrying and scratching sounds

Signs of gnawing on wood and electrical cables

Signs of animal or bird droppings

Signs of urination

Smells

Hives or nests present

Here are some tips for homeowners to make sure their home is critter-free:

Inspect the exterior of the home to make sure any openings or gaps in the exterior cladding or siding are sealed

Make sure all areas of the fascia and soffit are tight and sealed with no gaps or openings

Make sure the chimney flue is capped or closed off when not in use

Take note of any new or odd animal behavior in your yard, like squirrels traveling across the roof or electrical wires

Trim trees and surrounding foliage to prevent easy access to the roof

Perform regular inspections of the attic areas

Spring is a good time for homeowners to reach out to contractors about infestation and maintenance after a long, cold winter.

By Anthony Montagna, Apr 20 2017 03:19PM

As the snow begins to melt in many parts of the country, now is the time to clean up for spring. Winter weather can be a shingle’s enemy (especially in areas that had to deal with so many storms), so it’s important forhomeowners to reach out to contractors to help them with their roof’s spring-cleaning and inspection. Not only will this make a home look better, it can also extend the life of the roof. Here are some tips on what to look for during spring cleaning.

Tree limbs. Make sure tree limbs don’t touch a roof. If they do, they can easily scrape over the shingles and loosen the protective granules. This will severely reduce the life of a roof. Trim trees close to the house to avoid any limbs touching the roof surface.

Leaves and pine needles. A little leaf or a few pine needles are fine, but if they collect and are deep enough to hold moisture, they need to be taken off the roof. Anything that traps moisture will cause mildew to form, block gutters, or cause extra weight on the roof. A rake or air blower can be used to clear the roof, but take care not to damage the shingles.

Moss. Cutting back trees and removing leaves will reduce moss growth, as it will allow sunlight to dry up the moisture that moss thrives on. While there are chemicals available on the market to get rid of moss, the runoff can cause damage to plants. Another solution is to nail zinc or copper strips to the ridgeline; as rain washes across, it creates an environment where moss cannot grow.

Mold. Discolored streaks on a roof indicate there is mold, algae, or fungus, which can eat away at the roofing material and, ultimately, cause leaks. A treatment of chlorine bleach or copper sulfate solution applied with a garden sprayer can kill the mold. GAF manufactures algae-resistant shingles that have a specially formulated granule that inhibits algae growth, in addition to shingles with StainGuard® Protection. Finally, do not power wash shingles! It can dislodge granules and cause premature shingle failure.

Gutter damage. Heavy snow from the winter season can result in gutter damage while leftover fall leaves and debris can lead to clogged gutters. Before the springtime rain, check to make sure water can flow easily through the gutters and fix any loose nails that are preventing the gutters from sitting tightly along the roof line.

Missing shingles, chimney, and flashing. A complete inspection by a contractor can uncover issues with missing shingles, chimney damage, or flashing around chimneys, vents, or other bends in the roof.

Dealing with these potential issues in a timely manner will allow your roof to stand strong through the next season of weather challenges—and for many years to come.

By Anthony Montagna, Mar 30 2017 05:44PM

A roofing misconception, with the misconception being that the more ventilation the better it is for the roof.

So many times I see a roof like this one pictured here. This is actually a real live roof that I noticed the other day. Keep in mind there was no ventilation in the soffit and this same ventilation “device” layout was duplicated on the other side of that decorative dormer on the left. I know I probably should have taken more pics, but I’m always a little weary taking sneaky pics of someone’s house.

The reason I’m pointing this out would be that these two ventilation “devices” are not really doing much for the attic space beneath it. I am guessing…a shot in the dark…that the roofer felt that the slant back vent closer to the ridge would vent the roof naturally and if the attic space became too hot that the electric power fan would kick on and finish the job mechanically.

This sounds good in theory until that attic fan kicks on. When the attic fan kicks on, because the soffit is not ventilated, the fan’s powerful force, instead of evacuating the heat from the space below it will actually draw in fresh outside air from that slant back vent a few feet away creating a small cycle of airflow until the temperature around the fan drops just enough to turn off the thermostat. This cycle will run repeatedly and never actually fully cool the attic space. (If you look carefully you can see an obscene amount of black soot around the slant back) This is also putting an unnecessary strain on the fan and flat out wasting electricity.

There are four ventilation approaches that would perform better, let alone correctly:

Vent the soffit, eliminate the slant backs and move the power fan closer to the ridge.

Vent the soffit and put two slant backs near the ridge and eliminate the power fan.

Vent the soffit and cut in a ridge vent.

Vent the soffit and install gable end vents

Recognize the common trend here…? A vented soffit for intake and only one type of exhaust ventilation device. When you have more than one ventilation device installed for the same attic space the end result is the two devices “working against” each other.

I would like to thank The Guru for this information!

By Anthony Montagna, Mar 13 2017 04:12PM

During the winter season, homeowners should pay special attention to their roofs and problems caused by wintry weather. Snow, sleet, ice and rain will all test the fortitude of a roof’s construction, materials and their installation. A roof can experience ice dams, icicles, avalanches and even collapse under the impacts of the season, so it is in the best interest of the homeowner to pay special attention.

The colder winter months will primarily test the insulation and ventilation of a home. Proper insulation and ventilation of an attic will keep heat inside of a home, and may help homeowners save money on heating costs. The right combination of insulation and ventilation will also prevent ice dams from forming on the roof.

An ice dam is a layer of ice that forms at the edge of a roof when heat from an attic can cause snow on the roof to melt. The melted snow can then reach the cold overhang at the eave and re-freeze, causing an ice dam. Large, prevalent icicles can be one indicator that an ice dam has formed. The key concern with ice dams is that water from melting snow can back up behind the dam and fi­nd its way under shingles, then leak into your home.

Another problem that homeowners may experience under certain weather conditions are roof avalanches. On some steep slopes, snow packed on a roof can release off all at once. The weight and sudden slough of snow during roof avalanches can be very dangerous to areas directly below the eaves. Home and building owners may cordon off this area to prevent access. Other buildings in high snowfall regions will also install cross bars to retain the snow load on the roof.

In the rare instance that winter storms load a roof with an exceptionally large amount of snow and ice, roof collapse may become a concern. To gauge when the weight on a roof is in the danger zone, follow these guidelines from the Institute for Business and Home Safety. If a roof requires snow removal, contacting a roofing professional with a roof rake is advised. Roof rakes are specially designed tools for safe snow removal. The rake, when used properly, from the ground, will not endanger the remover or damage the roof. Improper use of the roof rake can cause premature granule loss to the shingles and may create damage that could lead to leaks.

By Anthony Montagna, Feb 20 2017 06:00AM

Attic ventilation choices – dynamic versus static?

The awareness of the importance of adequate and efficient roof ventilation continues to grow, as consumers understand the dangers of moisture build-up and resultant mold growth. The question is no longer, “Should the roofing contractor ventilate the attic,” but “What is the most effective way to ventilate the attic?” Currently, contractors are looking at the difference between static and dynamic ventilation systems.

According to B.R. Stewart’s article, “Attic Ventilation for Homes,” which he published as an agricultural engineer-environmental control – at the Agricultural Extension service of Texas A&M, “Ventilation of the home attic is important for two reasons. During the summer, excess heat that builds up in the attic during the day results in high energy costs for cooling. Also, moisture produced within the home may move into the attic if ceiling vapor barriers are not used. If this moisture is not exhausted from the attic it can condense and cause insulation and construction materials to deteriorate. Thus, temperature and moisture control are the major reasons for providing attic ventilation.”

It is not simply important to ventilate, but to ventilate properly. An attic can easily reach temperatures of 150 – 160 degrees Fahrenheit when the outdoor air temperature is only 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The cooling requirements for the home are increased dramatically. During cooler months the condensation of water occurs as cool outside air comes in contact with warm air and building surfaces inside the attic. Both ventilation systems, static and dynamic, ventilate the attic reducing high temperatures and moisture. They accomplish this result using different methods with varying benefits and drawbacks.

Static ventilation

Static ventilation is the use of non-electrical ventilation products that work with the natural flow of warm air and wind movement around the home. The method takes advantage of two principles. First, as air is heated it becomes less dense and rises. Second, wind movement over and around a home creates areas of high and low pressure. If a space has high air outlets in conjunction with low inlets, ventilation occurs as the air within the space is heated. In most cases, the greater the vertical distance between the outlet and inlet, the greater the difference in temperature between the soffit and the ridge which in turn can increase the ventilation rate.

A system of continuous ridge ventilation at the peak of the roof and soffit vents beneath the eaves is a common form of static ventilation. It provides for movement of air throughout the entire attic space. Other forms of static exhaust systems include gable vents in a variety of shapes and are located at the top of the gable. Round turbine vents are often seen perched atop a home and use the wind to draw the air from the attic space but have limited ability to allow the naturally buoyant heated air to escape from the attic.

Gable and turbine vents do not offer continuous airflow through the ridge. Also, the number and location of vents needed should be calculated carefully to make sure that all parts of the attic receive ventilation. With pot or turbine vents, dead spaces can escape ventilation raising the entire temperature of the attic. Another difference between ridge ventilation and the other static vents is appearance. Roofers and builders have an opportunity to maximize the appearance of a home by using low profile ridge vents on the roof and soffit vents hidden beneath the eaves.

Dynamic ventilation

Dynamic ventilation is accomplished in two ways. According to Stewart, in homes not mechanically cooled (air-conditioned) the temperature can be controlled to some extent by the use of attic fans. These fans are usually ceiling mounted in a central hallway so that outside air is pulled through open windows and exhausted through the attic. Sufficient outlets should be installed uniformly through the entire attic. Again, it is important to calculate the free air space and the number of vents needed to adequately ventilate the attic.

Dynamic ventilation methods add to the energy use of the home and according to askthebuilder.com, “It turns out that rooftop and sidewall mounted attic fans can actually suck air conditioned air from your house into your attic space. What’s more – in extreme cases – they can actually create serious life safety problems by back drafting combustion gases into a house living space.” The site continues to note a study by the Florida Solar Energy Center that has proven that as the sun heats up the wood roof sheathing and framing members in your attic they quickly and invisibly send this heat directly to the top layer of your attic insulation. The insulation in turn re-radiates this heat into the attic airspace.

Using this example the installation of a continuous ridge vent in conjunction with soffit vents will accommodate the natural rise of the heated air, thereby cooling the attic space while allowing the cool air in the home below to remain. Power ventilation methods tend to suck the cool air from the house with the possibility of also pulling combustion gases into your living spaces. Static ventilation is an efficient way of ventilating the attic without the use of additional energy, plus there is no future maintenance needed. With the entire ridge vented there are also no extra protrusions from the roof while providing a constant means of escape for warm, moist air, keeping the home cool.

By Anthony Montagna, Feb 13 2017 02:46PM

I’m sure you’ve heard of Owens Corning® and the Pink Panther® and if you are thinking yes then I’m sure as a homeowner you may not have heard of their SureNail Technology.

Owens Corning® uses patented SureNail Technology on their Duration brand of shingles and today I wanted to dive a little deeper and clarify SureNail and what exactly it does for the roof and the contractor.

SureNail is a woven fabric strip that is embedded into the asphalt of the shingle creating a triple layer on a laminate shingle in what is known as the common bond area. This is also the area where the nails are placed during installation or the nail zone. The SureNail strip is highly effective in providing pull through protection during high winds and blow-through protection during installation that it allows the shingle to achieve a 130 mph wind rating with only four nails. The highly visible ¾” wide SureNail strip also takes the guesswork out of where to nail.

On a typical shingle the “nail zone” is usually marked by a chalked line and/or tar adhesive strips. Owens Corning in conjunction with the SureNail Technology uses what they call Tru-Bond Sealant that is strategically added to the lower backside edge of the shingle. When the shingle is placed, the Tru-Bond Sealant adheres to the SureNail Strip of the shingle underneath embedding itself into the woven fabric creating a grip like bond between the two shingles. In addition, by not having the adhesive in the nailing area also keepsour roofing nailer tip clean...just saying.

To read more about SureNail Technology you can click here: SureNail Technology

To see a pretty cool short video featuring pull tests you can click the image above or click here: SureNail Video

I think Owens Corning really hit the nail on the head with this.

I'd like to thank the Guru for this info!

By Anthony Montagna, Jan 26 2017 04:33PM

Did you know Shakespeare was a window installer too?

First, let’s define what exactly Low-E means. I mean we say it all the time when discussing windows. Low-E is short for the tongue twister, Low Thermal Emissivity. This refers to a surface condition that emits low levels of radiant thermal (heat) energy. In short… energy efficiency.

There are a two types of Low-E coatings for windows. In simplistic terms there is a hard coat and a soft coat Low-E coating. Soft coat methods are more popular as almost all windows are double paned glass today. Hard coats are typically found on single pane glasses and are of a medium efficiency quality. Soft coats perform at a higher efficiency quality. Soft coats also offer a higher U-value than their hard coat counterparts. I could get into the technical mumbo jumbo, but it’s a snooze fest.

U-value is the key term we’re looking at when discussing energy efficiency. U-value is the overall heat transfer coefficient. It describes how well a window conducts heat or the rate of transfer of heat. A value closest to .25 is what we’re looking for. The lower the U-factor, the better the window insulates. Think of energy escaping the building through the glass when explaining U-Value.

When discussing efficiency of windows there is also the Solar Heat Gain Coefficient or SHGC, which is a measure of how much solar radiation passes through the window. A value closest to .25 is what we’re looking for again. When explaining the SHGC, this is the amount of energy entering the building through the glass. The cooler the climate, the windows should have a high SHGC allow a greater amount of solar radiation to pass through, offering free solar heating for the home. The warmer the climate obviously, the lower the SHGC, to keep the sun out.

U-value and SHGC are especially tricky for us here in the Northeast region as we have four seasons of weather to deal with. So our windows must be able to perform accordingly year round. The sweet spot for most manufacturers of windows for the Northeast tends to be around .30 for both the U-value and the SHGC.

So as an answer to the initial question...yes, definitely Low-E always.

I would like to thank the Guru for some good information!

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